Martha Stewart Finally Admits On Behalf Of Everyone That Rachael Ray Is The Sarah Palin Of The Food World
Monday, November 30th, 2009Martha, we love you. Still. Always.
Martha, we love you. Still. Always.
With a birthday and Thanksgiving separated by only a couple of days in the past week, there were no shortage of reasons to open a few good bottles. Today though, just a few quick impressions, as these were enjoyed for the pure sake of pleasure, at the table and without any note taking or overt analysis.

Vouvray “Clos du Bourg” Sec, Huet 2005
A really glorious bottle. Redolent of wet wool and damp clay when first opened then growing ever rounder and more honey and herb laced as the bottle grew emptier. I need to drink Vouvray more often… and I really need to drink Huet more often.
Nuits-St.-Georges “Les Grandes Vignes,” Domaine Daniel Rion 2001
When last I tasted this, it provided a much needed breath of fresh air. The better part of two-and-a-half years later, it’s continued to develop and continues to surprise, taking on greater weight with its slumber in the cellar. Rich red fruit laced with dark spice notes and beautifully ripe, round tannins. These wines are made in a very reductive style that can render them ungiving when young but, when all things are right, they can develop very nicely given a few years of patience.
Bacharacher Kloster Fürstental Riesling Brut Sekt, Weingut Ratzenberger 2000
This proves to be maturing more rapidly than the 1998, 1999 or 2001 versions of Ratzenberger’s Sekt. Perhaps that’s not surprising given the wet conditions in the fall of 2000. In any event, this has gone very much toward the truffle and oily end of the mineral spectrum, leaving behind much of the bright citrus and orchard fruits of this wine’s youth. Still damn tasty but it’s definitely time to drink up now.
Morgon “Côte du Py,” Jean Foillard 2008
I thought it was fun. My wife thought it was serious. You know what? We were both right. Foillard’s wines combine airy grace and delicacy with a depth that can be explored or simply accepted as fits the moment. The ‘08 may still be lacking something at its core but I think it’s only a matter of time before everything settles into place. Even now it’s delicious, with pure small red berry fruit allied to an earthy savor that made it a great match on the Thanksgiving table, especially with the turkey and the sourdough/shiitake/sage stuffing.
Original content published at McDuff’s Food & Wine Trail. All work copyright David McDuff and licensed under a
Creative Commons Attribution-NC-ND Works 3.0 Unported License.
November 29, 2009 (Sun):
How Sweet It Is: Pairing
Wine and Chocolate
Sunday,
November 29, 2 pm.
 
Sommelier
Eric Cavatore joins Amber Hinshaw from Lindt of Switzerland, Maître Chocolatier
since 1845, to offer advice on pairing wine and chocolate.
 
Cost: $35 per person. In[...]
December 2, 2009 (Wed): The class that over 2000 people have attended since 2001. Possibly the most important two hours a wine lover can spend, the premise of this class is to introduce the essential building blocks of wine knowledge. In a laid back atmosphere - and wine on the table - o[...]
November 28, 2009 (Sat): Possibly the most important two hours a wine lover can spend, the premise of this class is to introduce students to the essential building blocks of wine knowledge.  In a laid back atmosphere - and wine on the table - our instructors will have you swirling, sniffing, si[...]
November 28, 2009 (Sat): Over the last month, the Wine School has earned a bit of notoriety because of our fight with World Wrestling Entertainment over our Sommelier Smackdown classes. Apparently, the WWE doesn’t understand the concept of parody (or maybe they think it’s just fun to beat up on a li[...]

My boys. Two of the many things for which I’m thankful every day.
Happy Thanksgiving, all!
Original content published at McDuff’s Food & Wine Trail. All work copyright David McDuff and licensed under a
Creative Commons Attribution-NC-ND Works 3.0 Unported License.
Thanksgiving has long been one of my favorite holidays. A time to share food, wine and festivities in the company of friends, family and loved ones. Working in the wine trade, though, Thanksgiving is also one of the busiest, most frenetic times of year. Christmas may surpass it as the holiday for which the most wine is sold but no holiday, not even Xmas, drives a single, repetitive mission with such ferocity: “What should I drink with Thanksgiving?” There’s not even a need to mention the food, the tradition is such a given.

After days and days of answering the same question over and over again, there are nights when the last thing I want to do is have to think about what I’ll drink myself. Or what I’ll cook for that matter. I just want comfort. The comfort of familiar surroundings, a simple meal and a wine that I know so well that drinking it is like getting together with an old friend. Funny thing is, what I reached for on just such an evening earlier this week was a wine I’d been recommending all week long for the TG feast. But I wasn’t about to cook turkey.
So, without further ado, here’s what to drink with Thanksgiving… if you’re having pork chops.
Nahe Riesling “Lenz,” Emrich-Schönleber 2008
$24. 11.5% alcohol. Cork. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ.
“Lenz” is an archaic German word for the season of spring. Though not labeled as such, it is Werner and Frank Schönleber’s halbtrocken offering, a bottling that’s replaced several different pradikat and vineyard designated halbtrocken bottlings they had produced before simplifying and reconceptualizing their portfolio along VDP lines a few years back. It’s what Lars Carlberg of Mosel Wine Merchant might call a “dry tasting Riesling,” a wine that contains a measurable element of residual sugar but finishes with a completely dry sensation, driven home by mouthwatering acidity and an intense dose of minerality.
The 2008 is punchier and seems drier than did the 2007. It’s nervous as a tightrope walker in training. Schönleber’s wines, even the theoretically simple ones like this, can take years to really show their stuff. They’re delicious when young, so much so that it can be hard not to drink the whole bottle, but I always get the distinct feeling when drinking them this young that I’m only seeing part of the picture. Yet that part carries a distinct imprint of the whole. Like seeing a young girl who’s cute in a gangly way today but you just know will be dangerous in a few years. Or like admiring an orchid in partial bloom.
I’m not sure I can really improve on the producer’s own cleverly concise tasting note: “Vineyard peach, animating acidity, ‘Spring fever’ in the mouth.”
It was great with pork chops. Salt, pepper, a light rub of olive oil and a quick turn on the grill. A buttered baked potato and a simple salad. Couldn’t get much simpler, I don’t think, or more comforting. But yeah, it’ll work just fine with turkey, too.
Original content published at McDuff’s Food & Wine Trail. All work copyright David McDuff and licensed under a
Creative Commons Attribution-NC-ND Works 3.0 Unported License.