Field Report: Tomato Time At Barclay Prime
Over the weekend, Chef James LoCascio introduced Branch Creek Farms‘ 28 year old strain of heirloom tomatoes at Barclay Prime in a little thing they’re calling Tomato Time. An assortment of 80 pounds of Sicilian Plums, Green Zebra, Pineapple, Purple Cherokee, Sun Gold and Tiger Striped tomatoes are picked on Thursdays and immediately delivered to Barclay Prime, to be served each Thursday, Friday and Saturday. There, they are sliced and dressed to order, resulting in a truly luxurious experience.
And we don’t want to exaggerate, BUT: It is like tasting a tomato for the first time, in the glory of all that a tomato should taste like or could taste like. In their painterly tones of greens, golds, orange, reds, pinks and purples, the slices showcase the true substantial meat of the tomato, firm and fragrant, with seeds here and there. Chef LoCascio has chosen two floral extra virgin olive oils to dress the tomatoes, sprinkled with your choice of salts, including Hawaiian Lava, Alder Wood Smoke and Maldon salt from England. The earthiness of smoked salt in large colorful flakes highlights the texture and colors of the fruit, resulting in a sweet tomato flavor that is often destroyed in more common preparations. The flavors marry and dance on the palate, similar to a fine wine.
A California native, LoCascio has a unique understanding and respect in using fresh, local ingredients; and it shows in this love song to the heirloom tomato. He’s also supporting the local economy and environment by purchasing the tomatoes from Perkasie, PA. If you’re new to the Barclay, we also recommend you sample the dry aged sliders alongside all of this. Meat and tomatoes? Yes please!
Heirloom Tomato Tasting, $20, Barclay Prime, 237 S. 18th Street., 215-732-7560